Choosing a Reptile Breeder
When choosing a reptile breeder you will need to make sure the reptiles are well cared for and have been handled regularly. If possible, visit the breeder and see what the premises are like: are their enclosures clean? Do they have food and clean water available? Reptile owners are warned to avoid breeding farms. This is the type of breeder that keeps lots of exotic pets in substandard conditions, with little human contact, for the sole purpose of producing as many babies as possible. The reptiles may not be handled much and may be prone to being very stressed. This type of breeder probably won't ask you about your situation.
The best reptile breeders are the ones who want to know a lot about a potential owner. They want to make sure that a new owner will be a good fit with their pet, and that they know what to expect and can provide the proper care. Although you might feel like you are being interrogated by the breeder, this is actually a good sign. Good breeders also give a potential/new owner lots of material on care of their pets.
Remember, doing ample research up front, both into the type of reptile you want and into each breeder, can save you time, money, and heartache in the future. Do some research into reptile husbandry, so that when you visit a reptile breeder, you will be bale to ask them detailed questions and see if they practice good reptile husbandry techniques.
Reptile breeders may be located through our reptile breeders lists.
Reptile Husbandry
The five major areas of concern when caring for a reptile are as follows:
- Cleanliness
- Substrate
- Temperature
- Lighting
- Diet
Cleanliness
Reptiles' cages must be kept scrupulously clean. In the wild these animals never stay in the same place for any length of time and thus never come in contact with their own waste. Doing so in a terrarium or vivarium can lead to illness and even death.
- Clean the terrarium with a mild additive-free soap and water.
- Scrub the tank, then use a dilute bleach solution -- 1 part bleach to 16 parts water -- to wash it again. Be sure to rinse thoroughly to remove all traces of soap and bleach.
- Never use pine-based detergents -- they can cause health problems in tortoises.
Substrate
- The substrate is the material that lines the bottom of the terrarium. A number of materials are suitable for use as a substrate: pine, alfalfa, Astroturf, etc. Be sure to find out which is the right type for your particular pet.
- If you use Astroturf, be sure to have two or three pieces cut to the correct size. Then when one is being washed, another can be used in its place.
Temperature Range
- The temperature in your pet's habitat must range from cool to warm, as reptiles' body temperatures depend on their surroundings.
- Proper lighting is crucial (more about that later), and basking spots are important for your reptile's comfort.
- Create areas where your pet can hide.
- Be careful not to let your pet burn! Reptiles can be burned easily if the surface upon which they are lying is too hot, or if their home is placed in direct sunlight. Be aware of where you place your terrarium.
- Keep in mind that changes in your home's temperature will affect the temperature in the terrarium too.
Lighting
- Proper lighting is crucial to a reptile's well-being! Some species can't form proper bones without UV light.
- Natural light is the best, but be careful about your pet's length of exposure to any type of light. Take your pet outside to get natural light at least three times a week.
Diet
- Reptiles need variety in their diet just as people do. Some reptiles are strict herbivores; if you have room, plant a garden and let your vegetarian pet help himself to whatever he wants from it.
One last tip:
- When you decide to adopt a reptile, be sure to find a vet who specializes in such creatures.
If a reptile appears to be in good condition, but is kept under poor conditions (wrong temperatures, improper lighting, overcrowding, dirty cage, etc.) be wary. The stress of improper care may make the reptile susceptible to problems that might surface later.
Checking the Health of Reptiles
Reptiles in the pet trade are prone to being very stressed and sometimes ill, especially those seen in pet stores. Reptiles bought from a breeder are generally healthier, less skittish and easier to handle. There are some specific things to watch out for when choosing a pet reptile to help ensure your reptile isn't sick before you even get it home.
The following tips should help you assess the level of stress and health in a potential pet when picking out a pet reptile:
1. Look at the overall body condition - Reptiles should be well-fleshed and not emaciated looking. Avoid lizards that appear skinny or bony (watch for prominent hip bones, or visible tail bones), or that have abnormal swellings on the legs. Snakes should have a well rounded body and the backbone should not be visible. Turtles should have ample flesh between their neck and front legs.
2. Look at the skin (and in the case of turtles, the shell) - If the skin is excessively wrinkled and dull in appearance, the reptile is probably dehydrated. The skin should be supple and free of bites and scratches (these could form abscesses later on) and you should also check the belly for burns. Turtles should have firm shells with no defects; soft shells or shell defects are signs of serious illness.
3. Check for overall cleanliness - If there is faecal material on the belly or back of the reptile, it is likely to have been kept in unsanitary and/or overcrowded condition. If there are faeces on the back it may indicate that the reptile was too weak to get out from under stronger cage-mates (or it was kept in very overcrowded conditions).
4. Check the vent area for dried faeces or urates - If these are caked on the vent area it may indicate illness or parasite infestation.
5. Check the eyes - They should be clean and clear and free of discharge or crusted material. Swollen eyes may indicate systemic illness, particularly in turtles.
6. Watch out for runny noses or mucous around the nostrils - In some species salty deposits are normal.
7. Check the mouth - The inside of most reptiles mouths are a healthy pink colour, and smooth. A pale pink or greyish colour in the mouth, or the presence of small yellow, white or green patches on the tongue or inside of the mouth are signs of systemic illness and/or mouth rot. Also be wary if the saliva is stringy or ropy looking.
8. Check the rest of the head for any swelling or asymmetry (both sides of the head and jaw should look the same) - Swelling or asymmetry of the jaws is can be indicator of metabolic bone disease or abscesses. Other lumps or swelling may be abscesses or indicate the presence of general infections or illness.
9. Check for the presence of mites - These are tiny specks (may be black, dark brown or reddish brown, or orange) that move. Pay close attention to the head and neck and belly areas. While fairly easy to treat, they may indicate that the reptile has been stressed and/or kept in crowded or unsanitary conditions.
10. Ask to handle the reptile - Check the strength of the reptile. A very docile, limp reptile is probably ill. Try to handle a variety of reptiles to get used to the normal muscle tone of reptiles. Turtles should strongly pull their legs away if grabbed. Snakes should be have good muscle tone and strength, as should lizards. Juveniles will naturally be less strong than adults. Weakness or shakiness is a sign of illness and twitches or tremors may indicate the presence of metabolic bone disease.
11. Asses the reptiles behaviour - Reptiles should appear bright, alert and responsive. Healthy reptiles generally resist being caught and initially may fight being held. A tame reptile may be easier to hold, but should still be alert and responsive. If a reptile appears lethargic and not responsive, it is most likely ill and weak. (One exception: reptiles kept in cool conditions will be slow and lethargic as a result, but these reptiles may also be stressed or ill due to the improper conditions).
12. Look for signs of respiratory disease - Including discharge from the eyes or nose, open mouthed breathing (this can also happen if the tank is too hot), or clicking or wheezing sounds when the reptile breathes.
Tips:
Have everything you need set up completely at home before getting a reptile. Going to a new environment is stressful enough; you don't want to be fiddling with setting up a tank and getting temperatures right after bringing your reptile home. Have everything ready and "perfect" for the new arrival - this means you'll need to thoroughly research the needs of your pet well before you buy it and avoid impulse purchases.
If a reptile appears to be in good condition, but is kept under poor conditions (wrong temperatures, improper lighting, overcrowding, dirty cage, etc.) be wary. The stress of improper care may make the reptile susceptible to problems that might surface later.
Knowing about the proper care of your potential pet before you go shopping makes it possible to evaluate how well the reptile is being cared for by the seller.
Reptile breeders may be located through our reptile breeders lists.
